Oct 16

I left my hotel in Siena for the fast downhill plunge to the valley bottom, across the little bridge and then I got off Friday before the really steep short climb.  I hate having to try to stop and dismount on very steep hills.  Once up, the ride down to the train station was easy.

I was headed by train to Pisa, where I hoped to find some flat easy riding north to an area called Cinque Terres, but more of that shortly.  First I have to get there.  I was worried about getting on the trains without having to fold my bike.  I had been reading a number of conflicting stories about how that went.

When I asked for my ticket I pointed to my bike and the ticket master just nodded his head and pointed to the charge machine. 14E, of which about 1.5E was for my bike.  The first train was already in and I wheeled my load down the platform and into a car with a large bike graphic on the side.  I bunggied Friday to a wall and sat down.  I had a transfer an hour later and found elevators that would take me down and then back up to the proper platform.  As I coasted along enjoying the green Italian hills a lot of the angst seeped away.  I am prepared to fold up my bike and drag it through the stations, but I will be trying very hard to make sure that the trains I use allow bikes; wheeling everything is so much easier, and the cost is insignificant.

Another issue arose as I wheeled my load into the Pisa Station.  I was getting a serious cold and I needed nose-blowing stuff.  I found a bathroom and then a cafe where I had coffee and a croissant.  It was just after noon and I had given myself time to ride to the Pisa Tower before heading to my accommodation.  I was quite impressed.  I wheeled my bike into the Piazza at its foot and there it was, very close and very close to falling over.  I joined the crowd, took my pics from a few different places and headed out onto the streets, to find my accomodation.

Some of my accommodations have been rooms in houses and they have been great but you have to arrange to meet someone to let you in.  I was lucky again and I snuggled in to fight my cold by sleeping it off.  I headed out on my bike about 4:00, but I knew I would not find a restaurant that was open; 7:00 pm usually the earliest.  I had a cup of tea and went back to bed.

Oct 17, Ride to Viareggio

I was feeling pretty punk as I headed out, but I had already made an advance booking In Viareggio.  I had an enormous glass of orange juice, that was great and a similar sized cafe Americano at a McDonald’s on the outskirts of Pisa.  Soon after I left the busy highway headed for the seafront.

I was hoping to find flat riding north along the NW coast and the first part of that would be on trails as far as Viareggio.  After 5 or 6 km of easy road riding I found the walking/biking trail that paralleled the beach.  Every few hundred metres there was an access trail to the beach.  Most trail users were cyclists on every kind of bike, but it was gravel bike heaven as the trail was hard gravel with enough mud puddles to make riding interesting.  I was continuing to ride slow to keep my breathing easy and the coughing at bay.  To savour the ride I did stop once and walked out to the beach.  In all it must have lasted for an hour, 15 km.

I had a nice lunch in Viareggio at a sidewalk cafe and looked forward to an easy 3 km ride onto the resort strip north of town to my booking.  Google and the road noise had other plans as I flailed around getting out of town.  The culprit being the train tracks that I kept getting on the wrong side of.  I gave up trying to understand Google as she went on and on and all I wanted was a left or right.  It took over an hour and I struggled into my hotel with a head that felt like it would soon explode.

I extended my booking to two nights with the idea that I could rest/sleep my cold away.  The strip of resorts runs all along the coast almost to La Spezia, my ultimate destination.  Big hotels look out across the road system to low lying buildings with boutiques, restaurants and stuff.  The road system is a small two way road that is not very busy, a car-width bike trail, at least two pedestrian walkways and a wide area where people just meander around.  The beach was not very heavily used while I was there, maybe more so in the summer.  Most people just seemed to wander around.  In the mornings the runners and serious cyclists flashed along their respective trails, although the serious road cyclists used the car road.  I had evening meals in a little restaurant that seemed to be open most of the time, even though my appetite was poor.  My day off was restful, but the cold held on.

Oct 19 To La Spezia,

I was on the bike trail at about 8:30 and never put a foot down for an hour and a half. Keeping my breathing under control I was doing about 17kph, so I was passed by the odd morning cyclist and of course all those on the road proper.  I was even passed by a gorgeous long-legged roller blader who went all the way to the end and then on her way back as well.

There was another 10 km of road riding into Sarzana, but the riding was not as nice so I stopped and had a think.  It was still about 15 km to La Spezia and Google had about 100 messages  that it would throw at me to get me there, and I had had a nice morning without her.  The train station was close and so I really had no choice.  About 10 minutes by train and I was soon into Hotel Mary in sight of the station.  I expected to be using the train a bit while here.

Possibly the nicest restaurant I have had yet was just a few steps away from the hotel.  I had rigatoni with spinach and ricotta, followed by tiramisu the first night.  The second I had seafood linguini followed by a fish potato dish.  They had a two course deal for 20E

Oct 20 Cinque Terre

The prime reason that I have ventured up here was to visit the five seaside villages north of La Spezia that have been made into a national park.  The forecast was not great, but I headed off anyway.  You buy your pass (25E) at the train station.  I went all the way to the northern village, that I will call # 1.  I was still not feeling well and so I wasn’t sure if I would walk from # 1 to #2, but once on the walk I wasn’t going to stop.  For about 100m it was a nice wide flagstone path, but then I saw a sign V5T, pointing down a steep rough trail;, V being the second town..  I couldn’t really stop could I?  I spent 3 hours probably covering 2-3 km.  Soon I had to show my pass.  There was endless up and down as the trail wound along the tree covered cliffs.  Beside my walking stick I used wooden rails, wire mesh but mostly the cliffs as a second balancing point.  Thankfully my legs seemed a bit stronger and my knees held.  I was often spooked by the exposure, but didn’t struggle, just moving very slowly being passed by 100s.  I wasn’t the worst, as I passed a few old people coming down steep sections on all fours; I’m sure they also wondered how they had been talked into this.  Most delightful was watching the young people scampering along the trail seemingly without even noticing how rough and treacherous it was for us more challenged.

Finally I noticed # 2 way below, the waves smashing against the abutments that the village was built on.  Too slow the village streets, foot paths really, replaced the trail.  I popped out into a piazza packed with people eating, drinking and trying to get into some place.  It was obvious that on;y a small number walk.

I had no chance of getting a drink so I got on the next train to #3, which seemed to not exist.  I had a kiosk beer and waited for the train to #4, which was much better developed, still 100s everywhere, but I got a few pictures.  By then I was done. But I did stop at #5, for a few me-less selfies and then back to La Spezia.  These places  are incredible and a huge attraction.  In hindsight the walk should have been left out because of my struggles, but I am still glad I didi it.

After dinner at my great trattoria, with a glass of Brut, I went to bed.  But I had a dreadful sleep, suffering with cold and then heat spells and wild dreams.

My cold is now worse and I am on the way to Modena, where I hope to recover some.  I have to find some way of fighting off these horrendous chest colds.