Oct 10, Impruneta – near Florence
I have now been in Italy for five nights, enroute for six, the first spent on the plane somewhere over the Atlantic. Landing in Rome about 11:30 am, Oct 5 kicked this trip off. I pulled Bike Friday off the conveyor belt onto a cart and headed towards the airport train station, to be stopped by an elevator with barriers meaning that I now had to carry my 21 kg bike bag along with my pannier and handlebar bag. I found out that I am no longer strong enough to carry these things very far. Bike Friday got dragged along quite a bit of the way to the train to Rome and then through the Rome station to the Florence train. A nice man helped me a bit in the Rome station, as it was a rush to make this connection.
In Florence after another carry/drag session I finally got a taxi to my booked hotel, arriving at about 4:30 pm, much earlier that I had expected. All things clicked in making these connections and yet I was exhausted. Travelling by bike is much harder than it used to be. I am not looking forward to the trip home from Rome.
I spent four nights in Florence; two at my central hotel and two in the suburbs as I was unable to extend my central Florence Booking. Eating has been the highlight so far. Almost all meals have been in sidewalk extensions of Osteria type restaurants. I have had pasta dishes with boar meat sauce, mushrooms, or seafood. I have had bruschetta, plain salad, tomato and cheese salad. I have had three or four types of coffee often with pastry. I have had wine, almost always “vino delo casa”, at most meals. Always these meal stops have been a restful respite from my activities.
I walked many of the narrow convoluted streets of old Florence. along the Arno River and over many of the bridges including the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge left standing by the German army as they retreated in 1944, ostensibly as ordered by Hitler.
As I wandered I was unable to connect with many of my first impressions made 62 years ago. I remember buying a tiny David head which I still have and a package of thin throwaway socks for less than a dollar in a market in the Piazza della Signoria with all the sculptures, a few of which are copies.
Most graphically there now seems to be so many more people, mostly tourists, many in large guided walking groups going from site to site. I also noted the many people pulling wheeled suitcases possibly headed to or coming from the train station, often a long ways away. Perhaps I noticed these because I wish my bike bag had wheels.
After a brief sleep when I arrived, I spent about an hour assembling Bike Friday so after a long morning walk on my first day I headed off on Friday to get used to the riding conditions. I crossed the Arno and up to Piazzale Michelangelo, for the views of the old town capped by the Duomo. I am sure there are building codes that will prevent highrises from blotting out this view
I have been a Michelangelo fan ever since my first trip to Florence, and so getting another chance to see the original David was not to be missed. You now have to book. On the day I was to move onto the suburbs I first walked up to the Galleria dell’ Accademia and booked a 3:00 pm visit (24 E), then went back to load my stuff onto Friday and ride the 13 km to my new accommodation, and then I rode back in to see David. All day long 100s of people are standing on the street in lines behind signs showing the booking times. I got in line behind a 3:00 time, to be told that it was for groups. The correct 3:00 sign had about 50 people in it, but we all got in fairly quickly. The most prevalent thing that remains from those visits years ago are of being in this museum wondering at the skill that it took to create pieces like the David. I had already seen, on this first trip, the Pieta in St Peters and a few other Michaelangelo pieces. At the Accademia there are also six unfinished Michaleangelo pieces that I love.
Finally I left Florence. The ride to Impruneta was only about 26 km, but heavy traffic and the continuous often steep climb was almost more than enough for one day. I did get some nice country riding and had lots of time to stop and rest as I rode. I arrived by noon, had a lovely meal with wine and coffee in a courtyard cafe, a walk around town, another nice meal and was early to bed. I had booked another day off in expectation of a tough first day and I am glad to have the day to go slow as I promised myself. I have booked the next three days for riding so we will see if I get better.
